The Best Portree Walk: Isle of Skye’s Historic Lump

For a short but richly layered walk in Portree, ‘The Lump’ provides a short stroll both scenic and historically intriguing. This tiny hill within the village is dotted with Scots pine and rhododendrons and is known for its distinctive views over the Isle of Skye’s natural surroundings (and rabbit population). It’s an ideal route for anyone keen to combine a gentle walk with a visual tour of Portree’s best views, including glimpses of the Cuillin mountains, Loch Portree, Ben Tianavaig, and the village pier. The walk around The Lump takes less than half an hour but longer if you decide to take your time and enjoy the variety of perspectives on offer. The route features some of Portree’s lesser-known landmarks, such as the Apothecary’s Tower and the Highland Games field, and its quietness can provide a welcome reprieve from the busyness of Portree. 

The Apothecary’s Tower and Historical Context

Reaching The Lump begins past Portree’s Royal Bank of Scotland, heading toward the local hospital. Opposite the Portree Medical Centre, a gate marks the start of the short track that leads directly up to the Lump. A few yards beyond the gate – on your left – a stepped path leads up to the Apothecary’s Tower. Built in the early 1830s by Dr Alisdair Ban MacLeod, a local figure whose medical and engineering contributions to Skye’s history remain mostly unsung, towers like this served a practical purpose. (Find out more about Dr MacLeod on the Experience Skye App)

In times when island villages were often isolated, the tower acted as a signal to passing ships, showing that Portree could offer medical supplies and support to those who might need it. The modern addition of a spiral stair within the tower enables a panoramic view over Portree harbour, the northern reaches of the village and all the way to the old man of Storr. 

The Highland Games Amphitheatre

From the Apothecary’s Tower, a path southwards leads to a man-made amphitheatre—a site where the Isle of Skye Highland Games take place each August. Established in 1877 and moving to The Lump by 1892, the games have become a focal point for Highland culture on Skye. The amphitheatre itself serves as a quiet spot for relaxation when the games aren’t in session, offering a good place for picnics or even a sun-soaked break on a fine day. Here, a visitor can imagine the lively competitions that have taken place over generations, as athletes gather each summer to participate in events that keep Scotland’s sporting traditions alive. When empty, the field retains an atmosphere suggestive of the gatherings it hosts—a peaceful yet purposeful space shaped by the history of Highland athleticism.

Footpath Around The Lump

After exploring the games field and returning along the track towards the entry gate, the walk’s final section lies to the left, following a narrow footpath that circles The Lump. This route takes a quieter path through Scots pines and passes several points where the ground drops steeply down to the water below. On dry days, the route is manageable, though the path’s narrowness and the abruptness of some drops mean that a watchful step is advisable, particularly when the ground is damp.

For those interested in photography, this footpath provides opportunities to capture Portree’s scenic layers, with ample vantage points to include both natural landscapes and human-made elements of the village.